A waterfall on an old coastline

Seljalandsfoss drops from the edge of a former coastal cliff. At the end of the Ice Age, the sea reached much closer to the mountains along this part of the South Coast. Since then, uplift of the land and the accumulation of sediment across the lowlands have moved the shoreline far south.

The old sea cliff remains. Seljalandsfoss now drops from that cliff onto land that was once much closer to the ocean.

This explains one of the waterfall’s most distinctive features: the abrupt vertical drop above an otherwise remarkably flat landscape.

The water comes from Seljalandsá, which has its source in the area of Eyjafjallajökull. Compared with some of Iceland’s larger waterfalls, Seljalandsfoss carries a relatively narrow flow. Its character is therefore shaped as much by the cliff, the recess behind it and the surrounding space as by the amount of water.

From the road, the waterfall is visible from a considerable distance, hanging high on the old cliff line above the coastal plain.

Walking behind Seljalandsfoss

The path behind the waterfall is what makes Seljalandsfoss unusual. In suitable conditions, a short path runs around the base of the cliff and behind the falling water before returning to the front on the other side.

Expect to get wet. Spray fills the recess behind the waterfall and changes direction with the wind. Clothing, cameras and phones can become soaked quickly even on otherwise dry days.

The path itself is uneven and constantly exposed to moisture. Rock and mud can be slippery, so footwear with good grip matters more here than the short distance might suggest.

Access behind the waterfall is also seasonal. During periods of ice or other unsafe conditions, the landowners may close the path. Icicles and ice accumulation around the cliff can create hazards both underfoot and overhead.

A closure should be treated as exactly that. The view from the front remains worthwhile, and conditions behind the waterfall are not something to test by bypassing a barrier.

The path is best understood as an additional part of a visit when conditions permit, not something that is guaranteed throughout the year.

Gljúfrabúi

A short walk north from Seljalandsfoss leads to a second waterfall that feels completely different. Gljúfrabúi is partly hidden inside a narrow gorge in the cliff.

From outside, only part of the waterfall can be seen. The classic view lies farther inside, where water drops into the enclosed space between steep rock walls.

Reaching that view normally involves stepping through the shallow stream running out of the gorge. Waterproof footwear is useful, and conditions can make entry impractical or uncomfortable.

Inside, the atmosphere is almost the opposite of Seljalandsfoss. Seljalandsfoss is open, bright and visible from the road. Gljúfrabúi is enclosed, darker and partly concealed by rock.

The contrast is what makes the two waterfalls work so well together.

Gljúfrabúi is sometimes described as a hidden or secret waterfall, but neither description is particularly accurate anymore. It is well known and visited regularly.

What remains true is that the gorge hides much of the waterfall until you are almost inside it.

Through the seasons

Seljalandsfoss changes considerably with the seasons. Summer brings long daylight hours, green vegetation and frequent mist around the waterfall. Low evening light can pass directly through or beside the falling water, sometimes producing strong rainbows.

Winter changes the character completely. Ice builds around the cliff and waterfall, and the surrounding landscape becomes much harsher. The path behind the falls may be closed when ice makes it unsafe.

Artificial lighting remains installed around Seljalandsfoss and makes the waterfall visible during Iceland’s darkest months. That creates a very different night-time landscape from summer, particularly when snow and ice reflect the light around the cliff.

The waterfall is therefore accessible as a destination throughout the year, but access behind it should never be assumed.

On screen

Seljalandsfoss has appeared repeatedly in film, television and music. It was used during The Amazing Race and has appeared in music-related productions including Justin Bieber’s I’ll Show You, filmed at several locations across South Iceland.

These appearances have helped make Seljalandsfoss internationally familiar, although the experience of standing behind the waterfall is difficult to communicate from a conventional front-facing photograph or film shot.

Visiting Seljalandsfoss

Seljalandsfoss lies just off Route 1 on Iceland’s South Coast and is one of the easiest major waterfalls to reach. Parking at the site is paid. Toilets are available near the parking area.

From the main waterfall, the footpath continues north along the base of the cliff towards Gljúfrabúi, so there is little reason to treat the two as separate stops.

Road 249 also continues inland from this area towards Þórsmörk.

Seljalandsfoss can become busy, particularly during the middle of the day when organised tours and self-drive visitors overlap. Early morning and later evening generally provide a quieter experience, especially during the long summer days.

The waterfall itself does not require a long visit, but walking behind it and continuing to Gljúfrabúi makes the stop considerably more interesting than simply photographing Seljalandsfoss from the car park.

• • Seljalandsfoss drops about 60 metres from an old sea cliff.
  • The modern coastline lies far south of the cliff from which the waterfall falls.
  • A path allows visitors to walk behind Seljalandsfoss when conditions are safe.
  • The path may be closed during icy or otherwise unsafe conditions.
  • Seljalandsá has its source in the Eyjafjallajökull area.
  • Gljúfrabúi lies a short walk north and is partly hidden inside a narrow gorge.
  • Artificial lighting makes Seljalandsfoss visible during the dark winter months.
  • Parking at Seljalandsfoss is paid.