Fjallsárlón glacier lagoon

Fjallsjökull at the centre of the view

Fjallsjökull descends from the Öræfajökull massif and meets the lagoon at the northern end. From the shore, crevassed ice, debris bands and the broken glacier front appear closely connected with the water below. The surrounding mountains rise behind them, closing the view and reinforcing the sense that the glacier occupies the entire landscape.

This proximity distinguishes Fjallsárlón from the broader scene at Jökulsárlón. There, the scale of the lagoon and the movement of ice towards the ocean dominate the experience. Here the principal relationship is between the visitor and the glacier itself. Even when relatively little ice lies near the shore, Fjallsjökull remains the visual centre of the place.

Öræfajökull rises behind the glacier, but its great height can make it difficult to include comfortably in a composition from close to the water. It is nevertheless fundamental to the geography of the scene: Fjallsjökull is one of the outlet glaciers carrying ice down from the massif towards Breiðamerkursandur.

A young landscape still expanding

Fjallsárlón developed and enlarged as Fjallsjökull retreated. The withdrawal of the ice exposed a basin in front of the glacier, allowing meltwater and calved ice to collect. Continued retreat has changed the position of the glacier front and expanded the water between the ice and the moraine.

The process can be understood within the compact landscape around the lagoon. Mountain ice descends into the glacier, the glacier reaches the water, and newly exposed ground separates the present shoreline from earlier positions of the ice. Fjallsárlón is therefore not a fixed lake beside a fixed glacier, but one stage in a continuing adjustment.

Ice that calves into the lagoon normally remains there until it melts or breaks apart. Fjallsá drains the lake, but the floating ice does not continue through the river to the Atlantic as it does through Jökulsá at Jökulsárlón. This keeps the story of Fjallsárlón concentrated within the basin itself.

A short approach to a close glacial view

Fjallsárlón is reached by a short access road from Route 1. Parking, toilets, food service and marked paths are available at the site, and an easy walk of roughly ten minutes leads to the principal views across the lagoon. The approach is short enough for most visitors, but moving farther along the accessible shore can reveal a much better relationship with the ice than stopping at the first viewpoint.

The useful position changes from one visit to another because wind and water redistribute the floating ice. Pieces may collect near one part of the shore while another section remains open, so the lagoon should be read before a viewpoint is chosen. Active glacier water and floating ice should always be treated with caution; the established shore provides the proper place from which to experience the landscape.

Seasonal boat trips operate on the lagoon and bring visitors closer to the ice. From shore, the boats can also clarify the scale of Fjallsjökull and the surrounding mountains. Their small size against the landscape often explains its dimensions more effectively than an empty view.

Proximity rather than scale

Fjallsárlón and Jökulsárlón are close enough to be visited on the same journey, yet each answers a different question about the glacial landscape. Jökulsárlón reveals a large, moving system in which ice travels from Breiðamerkurjökull towards the ocean. Fjallsárlón shows what happens when the glacier, lagoon and enclosing mountains are brought much closer together.

That difference is more important than the relative size of the lakes. Fjallsárlón feels immediate because the space between the observer and the glacier is compressed, while the higher mountain behind it limits the northern sky. The same enclosure that strengthens the daytime landscape makes the lagoon less open for northern-lights photography than Jökulsárlón.

The character of the visit depends more on conditions than on season. Calm water, the distribution of ice, cloud around Öræfajökull and the direction of the light can each change the scene substantially. Winter may bring snow and low light, but it is not inherently more rewarding; what matters is how the elements come together on the day.

• • Fjallsárlón lies below Fjallsjökull, an outlet glacier descending from Öræfajökull.
  • The lagoon has expanded as Fjallsjökull has retreated.
  • Fjallsá drains the lagoon, but floating ice normally remains within the lake until it melts or breaks apart.
  • The glacier and mountains appear closer here than at Jökulsárlón.
  • An easy marked walk of roughly ten minutes leads from the parking area to the main lagoon views.
  • Seasonal boat trips operate on the lagoon.