Bolungarvík fishing town in the Westfjords

A working fishing town beneath the mountains

Bolungarvík is not simply a former fishing village preserved for visitors. The harbour remains active, fishing vessels still come and go, and fish processing continues to provide an important foundation for the local economy. Walking around the waterfront gives a more complete impression of the town than merely stopping beside the main road.

Fishing companies have played a central role in the development of modern Bolungarvík. Einar Guðfinnsson established an enterprise that became closely connected with both the town’s fishing industry and its twentieth-century growth. His contribution was recognised in 1974, when Bolungarvík received town status and he became its first honorary citizen.

The fishing industry has changed considerably since then, but it has not disappeared. Jakob Valgeir and other local operators continue the processing and export of seafood, linking the settlement’s long maritime history with a modern international industry. This continuity is essential to understanding Bolungarvík: fishing is not only its heritage but part of its present-day life.

Visitors should remember that the harbour is a working area. It is normally possible to observe the boats and waterfront activity, but operational areas, machinery and private company grounds should be respected.

Þuríður sundafyllir and the settlement of Bolungarvík

According to Landnámabók, Bolungarvík was settled around the year 940 by the siblings Þuríður sundafyllir and Þjóðólfur. Þuríður settled in Bolungarvík, while her brother made his home in neighbouring Skálavík.

Þuríður’s nickname, sundafyllir, is usually understood as a reference to her supposed ability to fill sea channels with fish. The story places fishing at the beginning of Bolungarvík’s recorded history and reflects how access to productive fishing grounds determined where people could survive in the Westfjords.

Settlement folklore also tells of a serious dispute between Þuríður and her brother. Their quarrel allegedly ended with each placing a curse upon the other’s land. Þuríður declared that Skálavík would lose its permanent population, while Þjóðólfur predicted that Bolungarvík’s inhabitants would suffer from dangers at sea.

These are legends rather than documented historical events, but they became part of the cultural memory of both valleys. Skálavík eventually lost its permanent population, while generations of people from Bolungarvík experienced the genuine dangers of fishing on the exposed Westfjords coast.

Ósvör and the open-boat fishing era

Ósvör stands beside the old coastal route just outside Bolungarvík. It is a reconstructed nineteenth-century fishing station created on the site of an earlier station and now operated as a seasonal maritime museum.

The buildings include a fishermen’s hut, a salt house and spaces representing the traditional drying and processing of fish. The rowing boat Ölver and the collection of tools, clothing and fishing equipment help explain the demanding conditions faced by crews who went to sea in open boats.

The interpretation is one of Ósvör’s strengths. A guide traditionally dressed as an Icelandic fisherman gives the place a human dimension and makes it easier to imagine the routines of the fishing season. Ósvör is compact, but visitors interested in maritime history should allow close to an hour rather than treating it as a brief photograph stop. Opening is seasonal, so arrangements should be checked before travelling outside summer.

The coastline around Ósvör is also worth exploring. Óshólar lighthouse stands farther along the shore, and the old route provides views over exposed headlands and the open sea. Conditions must always be respected because rockfall, erosion and rough weather can affect coastal routes.

Ósvör is particularly atmospheric in the evening. Its coastal setting, limited artificial light and open northern sky can also make it an excellent location for photographing the northern lights when conditions are favourable.

From the dangerous Óshlíð road to the tunnel

For decades, the journey between Bolungarvík and Ísafjörður followed the narrow road around Óshlíð. Although spectacular, the route lay directly below unstable mountainsides and was vulnerable to falling rocks, avalanches and difficult winter conditions.

The 5.4-kilometre Bolungarvík Tunnel opened in July 2010 and transformed access to the town. The new road provided a safer and far more dependable connection with Ísafjörður, reducing the isolation that had long affected daily life, transport and local businesses.

Parts of the old Óshlíð road can now be used for walking and cycling, offering dramatic coastal scenery and a close view of the terrain that made the former journey so challenging. Visitors must still take local conditions seriously. Rockfall can occur, and sections of an abandoned coastal road do not receive the same monitoring or maintenance as the main highway.

The large avalanche defences below Traðarhyrna tell another part of the same story. A long diversion dam and a series of braking mounds were constructed above the settlement to reduce the danger from avalanches. Their scale is striking when seen from town and demonstrates how closely life in Bolungarvík is shaped by the surrounding mountains.

Bolafjall above the Atlantic

Bolafjall rises above Bolungarvík and provides one of the finest elevated views in the Westfjords. A seasonal mountain road climbs towards the Icelandic Coast Guard radar station and a viewing platform approximately 638 metres above sea level.

From the mountain, the landscape opens across Ísafjarðardjúp, Jökulfirðir and the remote Hornstrandir peninsula. On a clear day, the height, extensive view and abrupt drop towards the ocean create an unforgettable sense of scale.

The road is generally accessible during the summer when snow and surface conditions permit. An ordinary car is suitable in good conditions, but the ascent is steep and drivers should be comfortable on mountain roads. Access can close because of snow, fog, wind or maintenance, even during the usual summer season. Current road information and any applicable parking arrangements should therefore be checked before setting out.

Visitors should remain within designated areas near the viewpoint. The cliffs are extremely high, weather can change quickly and children require close supervision. Bolafjall deserves its own destination page, but it is also one of the principal reasons to spend time in Bolungarvík.

Skálavík, museums and practical services

The road across the mountains continues towards Skálavík, the valley traditionally associated with Þjóðólfur, brother of Þuríður sundafyllir. The valley no longer has a permanent population, but summer houses remain and the broad black beach, open ocean and surrounding mountains make it a worthwhile extension of a visit to Bolungarvík.

Back in town, the Natural History Museum of Bolungarvík presents Icelandic birds, mammals and other specimens, including a polar bear. It provides a useful indoor alternative when mountain weather limits outdoor plans and is particularly suitable for families.

Bolungarvík has the practical services needed for either a short visit or an overnight stay. These include accommodation, places to eat, shops, fuel, a swimming pool and a campsite with service facilities. Staying locally makes it easier to visit Ósvör in the evening, wait for clear conditions on Bolafjall or continue into Skálavík without fitting everything into a hurried detour from Ísafjörður.

• Landnámabók connects the settlement of Bolungarvík with Þuríður sundafyllir around the year 940.
• The name sundafyllir refers to Þuríður’s legendary ability to fill stretches of sea with fish.
• Ósvör recreates a nineteenth-century fishing station and preserves the rowing boat Ölver.
• Bolungarvík received town status in 1974.
• The 5.4-kilometre Bolungarvík Tunnel opened in 2010 and replaced the exposed road around Óshlíð.
• The avalanche defences above town include a large diversion dam and several braking mounds.
• The Bolafjall viewing platform stands approximately 638 metres above sea level.
• Skálavík, once a permanently inhabited valley, is now primarily used for summer houses and recreation.