The Stokksnes peninsula projects into the North Atlantic just south of the town of Höfn, in the shadow of the towering Vestrahorn mountain. Rising more than 450 meters above sea level, the jagged peaks of Vestrahorn dominate the skyline, their sharp ridges shaped by volcanic activity and glacial erosion. At their base stretches a vast plain of windswept black sand, formed from eroded volcanic material carried to the coast by rivers and glaciers.

This stark contrast between sharp granite peaks and smooth sandy shoreline makes Stokksnes one of the most photogenic locations in Iceland. The tides regularly wash over the black sands, creating thin reflective layers of seawater that mirror the mountain above – a phenomenon especially striking during calm weather. Offshore, the open Atlantic reminds visitors of the peninsula’s role as a meeting point between land and ocean, where storms, winds, and waves constantly reshape the landscape.

The name “Stokksnes” translates roughly as “staves headland,” a clue to its use as a navigational landmark by seafarers since the Viking Age. Medieval records suggest early farms and fishing stations existed nearby, but the peninsula itself remained too windswept and exposed for permanent settlement.

In the 20th century, Stokksnes became part of a much larger story: the Cold War. On top of the U.S. Navy presence at Keflavík airbase, the Navy established four radar stations in strategically important places around Iceland. One of those was here at Stokksnes, close to Hornafjörður. These manned stations were primarily used to monitor aviation over the North Atlantic but also played a role in detecting submarine traffic in Icelandic waters. The Stokksnes installation, run in cooperation with the Icelandic Coast Guard, became part of NATO’s defense network at the edge of the Arctic.

Supplying such remote and weather-beaten outposts was a constant challenge. U.S. Navy aircraft carried men, food, and equipment between Keflavík and these stations. It was on one such mission that history left its mark far from Stokksnes itself: the wreck of the Douglas C-117 (a military variant of the DC-3) on Sólheimasandur. In November 1973, the aircraft was returning from a supply run, flying high over Vatnajökull on its way back to Keflavík. Low fuel and worsening conditions forced the crew to make an emergency landing on the black sands of Sólheimasandur. All survived, but the wreck remains there today, a stark reminder of Iceland’s Cold War role and the risks of maintaining these distant stations.

Thus, the story of Stokksnes cannot be told without placing it in this wider geopolitical context – a place where Iceland’s landscape became part of global surveillance, and where the windswept beauty of Vestrahorn stood side by side with radar domes and supply flights.

Despite its harsh climate, the Stokksnes peninsula is home to a surprising variety of wildlife. Seabirds nest in the dunes, particularly Arctic terns and oystercatchers, while seals can often be spotted offshore resting on sandbanks. The dunes themselves are fragile ecosystems, stabilized by hardy grasses that grow in shifting volcanic sands. Visitors are asked to tread lightly to protect these delicate habitats.

For travelers today, Stokksnes is a place of immersion. Walking along the vast beach beneath Vestrahorn, one experiences both solitude and grandeur. The peninsula is privately owned, and access is managed through a modest entrance fee that helps maintain the road and facilities. This arrangement has sparked debate but also ensures that tourism contributes to preservation.

The best times to visit are during sunrise or sunset, when low light paints the black sands and mountain peaks in shades of gold and purple. In winter, the aurora borealis often dances above Vestrahorn, adding another layer of wonder to the experience. Stokksnes is not only a scenic highlight of the Eastfjords but also a place where natural forces, human endurance, and global history converge.

• Vestrahorn is sometimes nicknamed “Batman Mountain” for its sharp, wing-like profile.

• The rocks that form Vestrahorn are primarily gabbro, a coarse-grained volcanic rock different from the basalt that makes up most of Iceland.

• Stokksnes was one of four U.S. Navy radar stations in Iceland during the Cold War, part of NATO’s surveillance network.

• The sand dunes at Stokksnes are among the few in Iceland where grasses have managed to form semi-stable dune systems.

• The C-117 wreck at Sólheimasandur is tied to the same supply missions that serviced radar stations like Stokksnes.